It’s loud here because every person sitting down is laughing and shouting through mouthfuls over the music. Imagine your dad in a restaurant that’s a) loud, b) smelly, and c) only offering you bizarre and egotistical flavour combinations that the chef’s thought up whilst looking in the mirror. The great thing about B.A.M is that it’s not only the food that surprises you, the atmosphere does as well. It’s all part of the fun and you don’t want to miss out on any of it, so don’t order politely. Things get a lot less Turkish-inspired the more you order, deep fried guinea fowl wings fall into this category, as does the squid ink and cod’s roe flatbread, a dish so black, white, and glittery that it looks like the offspring of Gene Simmons and Lady Gaga. Toppings like fresh herbs and dressed peppers are of your usual variety, but lamb offal or oxtail, anchovy and dripping are not. There are some things that fit this, like the flatbreads. B.A.M used to bill itself as Turkish-inspired, but this was a very loose definition, and that’s a good thing. And that’s before we get to the best part: the food. Cans cracking, stuff smoking, Slayer slaying. From the moment you walk in, your senses go into overdrive. Yes, it’s loud inside, but B.A.M definitely isn’t just noise. Thankfully though, it’s neither of these things. The sort of place you’d think your Dad would either grimace his way through or, worse, say “this rocks”, and you would grimace for the rest of your life. With that in mind, we had some concerns about Black Axe Mangal: a twenty-five seater restaurant doing slightly mental food soundtracked to heavy metal music that’s been Highbury’s worst kept secret for a while now.
We remember how they hyped the Millennium Dome, we remember green ketchup, and by god do we remember Jar Jar Binks. We’re always a bit weary when there’s lots of noise around something.
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